Le Furet Tanrade

I have plotted out my plan of attack at the Louvre, and am resting up for what I hope is a long afternoon and evening wandering this enormous place.

Yesterday, I went past the little shop on my street that Chowhound RandyB is so passionate about - Le Furet Tanrade. I was seeking a confiture (jam/preserves) he mentioned called Sous le Soleil. What I didn't realize, is that this little shop was the workshop of a master craftsman - it was a beautiful experience.

A tiny little storefront, on my block. There were baskets and shelves of chocolate and jars of confiture rather haphazardly displayed around the messy room, which smelled like heaven.

I was seeking confiture, but when confronted with the master chocolatier's workspace, I realized I wanted to try some of the candy as well.

 

The man in the store, who I believe was Monsieur Furet, was clearly the one making everything in it. His store sign and bags say "since 1728" so I wonder if this isn't a family business and skill, passed down for centuries.

I smiled and gave my "je parle tres peu francais..." and he smiled back. I asked for the Sous le Soleil confiture (three citrus with lavender) and he told me it was all gone. The only jars on display were of apricot, and I said I would take one. 

Then, his eyes lit up and he said a bunch of things I didn't understand. He held up a finger, and disappeared down a narrow staircase behind the counter. When he came back up, he had a jar of strawberry confiture in his hands. He took my hand and held it to the jar. It was warm. I'm tearing up just remembering this encounter...of course I took that jar as well. I can't wait to try these with my little jam and preserve-loving son.

I said I wanted some chocolate, and he picked out a piece and just handed it to me...it was a plain little disc of dark chocolate - as shiny and delicate as glazed bone china, and as delicious as you would expect a piece of handmade artisan chocolate from a tiny workshop in Paris to be. I told him I wanted a little bit of everything, and he patiently, lovingly even, took one or two pieces from each basket and placed them in a clear little bag. Again, waiting for my candy-loving boy to share these with.

High from that experience, I went on to the Marche St. Quentin - one of the oldest covered markets in Paris. 

The pavilion is based on the Les Halles-Balthard pavilions, according to a local who posts on TripAdvisor. He says it was built in 1832...7 years before Austin was founded.

Inside there were lots of kiosks and stands - fruits, vegetables, flowers, meat, fish, prepared foods. The fish stands were very enticing - all manner of fish, shellfish and crustaceans, fresh fresh fresh. This is the stand where I bought my filet of cod (cabillaud).

And this is the bag it came in - true words!

At one of the fish stands, the poissoniere was putting on a rather elaborate show of cutting fish into sushi-sized pieces. He had an audience!

There were quite a few ethnic eateries in the market - Brazilian, Portuguese, African, and this cous cous stand, which also carried Middle Eastern pastries:

Cannot believe I didn't take a picture of it, but I bought some fresh butter from one of the cheese stands. The nice gentleman sliced it off of a tower of butter. It is delicious!

I bought a demi-kilo of favas, un courgette (zucchini), and a bunch of thyme, came home and made my cabillaud poche. It was light, but delicious.

And now, I'm going to have a piece of du Puy baguette with a little of the beurre from the cheese guy, and head down to the Louvre. I am ready for some art...but I am really excited to see the Code of Hammurabi. I remember when we were at the British Museum in 1980, I was excited to see the Rosetta Stone....although that may have had a little more to do with the fact that Ian Mitchell from the Bay City Rollers had a new band by the name of Rosetta Stone. Whatever the reason then, it made an impression, and I'm looking forward to an edifying afternoon of arts and antiquities.

Happy Birthday, Mom!