Oh no! Its almost over!

In a way, time flew...but in another way, this place has become a little familiar, and I am going to miss it. Here is the view I said good night to each evening when I close the shutters...

 

Yesterday I took the bus down to the Place des Vosges, to visit Maison Victor Hugo - his apartment which is also a museum. He took the apartment in 1832, and lived in it until he had to flee into exile in 1848.

The building itself is from 1604, it was a mansion, until a benefactor bought it and donated it in Victor Hugo's name to the City of Paris.

Hugo's story was interesting. His mother was an ardent supporter of the Bourbon monarchy. His father was a general in Napoleon I's army - a stauch supporter of that regime. Hugo started off sympathetic to monarchy, but over the years, become more and more disenchanted.

He published Notre Dame de Paris (the Hunchback of Notre Dame) in 1829 - before he lived in this apartment. Themes of strict class separation were already apparent, but he hadn't completely given himself over to being the voice of the downtrodden quite yet.
 
They say he began Les Miserables in this apartment, but it took the 1848 Revolution to swing him into the more "republican" mindset he became famous for.

 

Exiled to Guernsey and Jersey, there he finished Les Mis - which has an anti-monarchist viewpoint, but takes place during the years in which he was still an avowed monarchist. Interesting.

After the museum I took myself for my first real restaurant meal since my first night in town. I chose Cafe des Musees, a Chowhound-approved place for traditional French food, close to the Place des Vosges.

L'ardoise (the chalkboard menu)

House-smoked salmon

Poitrine de veau du Limousin, peas and carrot salad

Open kitchen of Pierre Lecoutre

Did you  notice the Japanese tourist taking pictures of his charcuterie plate? Everyone who spoke anything but French had a camera!

Lecoutre is rightfully lauded for his smoked salmon - it was delicious and delicate, served with creme fraiche into which a chiffonade of basil had been stirred. Delicious.

The veal was lightly seasoned and then, as far as I can tell, pan seared and roasted. WONDERFUL! The meat was tender, flavorful, and as you can see, there was plenty of it! The peas were fantastic too - with shallots and some mild greens - maybe mache. The carrot salad was a little weird - it had a ginger vinegar dressing which at first seemed terribly out of place but was actually an excellent complement to the rich meat and savory peas.

The wait staff were brusque and funny, even as the place rapidly filled with dissatisfied Americans (we need more room, that table is no good, don't you have duck tonight?) and some French folk that look like they have been coming here for a long, long time. All in all, a charming, delicious experience. I wish doggy bags weren't so frowned upon here... sigh....what I couldn't finish of that veal would have made an excellent sandwich on some Eric Kayser baguette...oh well!